Where's The Beef

There have been several times when I have wondered why suddenly everybody and their brother is advertising angus beef. Every fast food restaurant suddenly has an angus except maybe Dairy Queen. Walmart sells angus burger patties and ground beef. Why? I grew up in a rural area and to the best of my knowledge Angus is a breed of cattle. Is the meat of one breed of cow better than all others. It seems to be more expensive. I finally though about this while in front of the computer rather than driving somewhere in my car and I looked it up.

Angus is a breed of cattle, actual two breeds, Black Angus and Red Angus. I believe there may even be subsets in the breeds. They are the most Popular breed in the US. They were brought to the US in the 1800's. For a long time most of the beef in the US came from Angus and Hereford cattle. So why did that change and why suddenly is Angus become such a marketing buzz word?

Well there are two things that make Angus beef different. First both Angus and Hereford have more of a protein called myostatin. Myostatin inhibits the growth of muscle. In other words, Angus and Hereford have more fat in their meat than other breeds of cattle. Second, Angus beef has very fine marbling (the fat is mixed into the lean meat very well).

If you are above a certain age then you may remember how it was decided that eating fat made you fat, so all kinds of stuff became low-fat or fat-free. Well angus beef went out-of-style. It now seems to be back in fashion as a premium food. Part of this might be due to the fact that most women work outside the home now, so slower cooking methods that tenderize the leaner, tougher beef that became standard are no longer practical. Part of it is due to the work of the American Angus Association. They created CAB (Certified Angus Beef), Certified Angus Beef requires that the beef produced if from either a certified Angus or from an animal that had a certified Angus for one parent. It also has to meet standard for marbling and 9 other strict standards. Less than 10% of beef produced meet this standard. So buying Angus beef means you get better meat right? Wrong. Buying CAB marked meat means you are getting a premium cut of meat. But the majority of Angus beef being sold isn't CAB, but we've now bought into Angus being better, so most people assume it is all the same. CAB meet sells for considerably more than other types of beef. You can rest assured that the Angus burger McDonalds sells isn't made from CAB beef. Another thing to consider is that the fast food chains have a major impact on the beef market. They now know people will pay more for a "premium" burger. So if the demand expands, unless the government gets involved and sets standards, suppliers may stretch their definition of what Angus beef is.

Now is Angus beef any better? Some people think it tastes better and is more tender. Well taste is determined by preparation method and fat. Since angus beef has a higher fat content, it may taste better than a leaner cut prepared the same way. Fat can also have a lot to do with tenderness. On the other hand, another cut of the same grade meat would probably taste the same to most people.

Incidentally, the Wagyu cattle breed has similar marbling and possibly even more fat than the Angus. One variety of the Wagyu is where "Kobe beef" comes from.